AN ODE TO VAN TOURING
Part 1 of 5.
Intro.
I remember driving through downtown Chicago in rush hour. We had just finished an acoustic set at a radio station and had forgotten to latch the trailer door. We were dropping gear out of the back, leaving a trail of debris: drums, guitars, road cases. Cars were honking and swerving, people were pointing and hollering. We had to circle back and grab everything like in an arcade game of Frogger. It was all a game to us.
We had left Brooklyn the night before and were on our way to Seattle to start a tour. That's a long way to drive in a van and trailer just to start a tour.
It was early January, cold and windy. I'll never forget that "Polar Vortex" winter of '13 into 14', a wild beast of snow and ice. The phenomenon was caused by a shift in the weather system that caused the frigid air, which is normally contained in the north pole, to shift south.
I was out there doing shows. I drove across the U.S. and Canada six times that winter. Everywhere from the salted-out industrially-plowed blacktops and rusty iron bridges of the Northeast, to the howling and lonely West.
We would start mornings by pouring boiling water over the door locks so we could get in because they were frozen shut. You aren't supposed to do it that way, you're supposed to spray them with WD-40 in the first place so they don't freeze. But we didn't know that then. That was the winter I learned that Fahrenheit and Celsius converge at minus forty. That's the kind of cold that will fold you in half.
**********
Part 2 of 5
Leaving Brooklyn.
As I said, we had left Brooklyn the day before. It was just me and the band. I had started working with them and was booked through April. They were eager to get out and go, to hit the ground running. There was a lot of hope in that tour, a lot of excitement. It was a big opportunity. The run of dates had us doing arena shows as the opener, combined with soldout headline club shows in between. This was off the back of a new single that was gaining traction. They were breaking through and we knew it going in. You could feel it.
I ended up touring with them for years on buses and planes across continents as they grew and scaled, but we didn't know that then.
I drove through that morning picking everyone up. New York had already been brutally cold, and across the country were forecasts for record low temperatures, snow, and ice.
Inside the van we had coffee, bagels, and a heater. We also had a purpose for the next four months. There's a lot of safety in that – a lot of promise. It breeds courage and we had strength of mind.
From the start, I could feel the arctic cold was a new kind of beast from the winters I had known. Driving down the Turnpike, through the floor of the van, I could feel the creeping freeze on my soles.
Roughly speaking, if the U.S. were a clock, we were starting in New York at what I would call three o'clock, and heading to Seattle at ten. To get there we had to cross the Rockies on I-80 through Wyoming and Utah. The weather through the Rockies during the winter is extraordinarily volatile. There was no reliable way of knowing which route was best. The technology didn't exist. The only way to find out what the roads looked like was to go and see for ourselves.
On tour you get hard juxtapositions.
One day you'll be in the city with its acerbic wit and cold countenance. Cars honking, abrasive traffic and pedestrian commands. The next day, in the mountains, alone in weightless space. And being in these disparate locations, you learn the good and bad, and it changes you.
The good of a city is that for all the incendiary tensions, human nature bends and you get intellectual and artistic achievements like museums and five-star take-out at 4am.
In places like rural "Big Sky" Montana or "Untamed Spirit" Wyoming, you are stunned by the blue, green and white, the bona fide high, wide, and handsome. But the open space has a dark side. You learn that nature doesn't accommodate.
**********
Part 3 of 5.
The cadence of touring.
The basic cadence of tour is: drive, do a show, sleep. Drive, do a show, sleep.
At all levels that's it. But in a van there’s more emphasis on the “drive” part because you wake up in a hotel, get in a van, and drive to the next city. That differs from touring on a bus where you sleep in a bunk overnight while the driver takes you to the next city so that when you wake up in the morning you're sitting outside the venue or hotel.
In a van you're more exposed to the world.
A Ford E-350 Econoline, the classic tour van, with a trailer full of backline and audio gear, we hauled it everywhere from the tightly-packed hills of San Francisco to the long and grinding slopes of mountain passes.
When other drivers saw us on the road they must have thought "ahh ok a church van". But then I'd swerve in and out of lanes and people backed off. For sure they must have thought we were late to the church camp or bible study or something. It must have been perplexing to see a church van driving the way we did, honking, changing lanes with a trailer – not aggressively per se – but adeptly with attention and focus. I drove it hard, and asked a lot because we had somewhere to be.
I did most of the driving because I wanted to arrive on time and in one piece. If someone in the band drove, they'd drive at a sloth's pace, get distracted, stop at every other exit, check Twitter, or do the opposite and fly ninety down the side of a hill with the trailer whipsawing like a lizard's tail behind us. I'd have to pay careful attention to their driving, so it was just easier if I did most of it.
I learned to arrive exactly on time at the venue. Not early, nor late, but metronomically on time to the minute because if we arrived early, the band would wonder why we were early then drift off before load in leaving me to do it by myself.
Once we got to the venue and the driving was done, we'd load in, I'd do FOH, we'd soundcheck, then I'd find hotels, answer emails, sort guestlist, then we'd do the show.
The shows were the fun part, big or small. There's a saying that goes "we'll do the shows for free, we get paid to travel." That's pretty much true.
Our headline shows in the clubs whirred with pulsating intensity, the atmosphere was electric. Something always went wrong on stage, some piece of gear, some fire to put out. But it didn't matter because it was 75 minutes to forget about the rest of the world.
Then we'd jump on bigger tours as an opening act in arenas and wander through the vast cavernous venues like explorers in a children's book trying to figure out where to go and what to do.
On this current drive, we had made it through Chicago and using what info I could find about the roads, opted to take the southerly I-80 route, which crosses Illinois then Iowa and Nebraska. We were heading east to west, right to left. It's a pretty straight shot through those states because there's not much to go around.
On the other side of Nebraska is Wyoming, and not long after reaching the border do you see the Rocky Mountains, and realize there's something pretty substantial on the horizon to go around.
However, what becomes clear when traversing the southern tier of Wyoming on I-80, is that the difficulty of the drive comes not from rounding steep peaks or sharp curves but from fighting the wind. The road for the most part is open and flat, but the wind is relentless.
Wyoming is roughly the shape of a square. In the bottom right is Cheyenne, the closest thing to a "city" you'll get. West of Cheyenne, on toward the mountains, you find yourself in the wild where the gods play – where nature doesn't accommodate.
As we approached Cheyenne we began to see orange construction signs flashing warnings of the winds ahead:
"DANGER 30 MPH GUSTS. HIGH PROFILE VEHICLES NOT ADVISED."
At first I didn't pay them any mind, but after a few, I turned to whoever was sitting next to me and asked "what's a high profile vehicle?" He looked on his phone and turns out it was exactly what we were driving. "High profile vehicle" is a blanket term that refers to any large vehicle. Tractor-trailers, straight trucks, vans with trailers, recreational vehicles, and even large SUVs are all considered "high profile" and are susceptible to blowing over in high winds.
And drivers ignoring the warnings can be held liable for damage and face jail time, especially if incurring injuries or death. Here we were just some band in a van trying to make it to a gig.
After Cheyenne, those signs perched along the highway, turned to digitally lit scoreboards attached to tree-trunk sized steel posts buried deep in the earth, which arched over the highway like a metal overpass that read: "DANGER 40 MPH GUSTS. HIGH PROFILE VEHICLES NOT ADVISED". Each time we passed under one, I thought to myself "how bad is this?"
As we went along, the road started to bend and curve around rock formations. It does that west of Cheyenne. Coming around one of those, I got my first taste of what all those signs had been "advising" us about. The wind hit us like a linebacker form-tackling a quarterback. It was powerful and abrupt and caused the steering wheel to jerk.
The next sign read, "DANGER 50 MPH ...".
Then "DANGER 60 ... ".
And finally, as we approached Laramie, a hundred miles shy of our goal for the night, was a line to the horizon of tractor-trailers idling in the shoulder, and a sign that read "DANGER 70 MPH GUSTS. NO HIGH PROFILE VEHICLES".
The interstate was closed.
At exit 313 in Laramie, at the interchange of I-80 and U.S. Route 287, was a metal barricade across the road. No pomp and circumstance or flashing lights, just ... closed.
Back on the Northeast Corridor, through the Rust Belt, and into the Midwest, when bad winter weather hits, the local municipalities deploy an arsenal of heavy machinery to clear the roads: snowplows with flashing yellow-and-orange lights, and articulated dump trucks brimming with salt. They move in aggressively and fight the snow and ice. Progress over nature. It's necessary to keep the cities churning.
Back on the Northeast Corridor, through the Rust Belt, and into the Midwest, when bad winter weather hits, the local municipalities deploy an arsenal of heavy machinery to clear the roads: snowplows with flashing yellow-and-orange lights, and articulated dump trucks brimming with salt. They move in aggressively and fight the snow and ice. Progress over nature. It's necessary to keep the cities churning.
But it's not like that on the open highways in the west. There is no dispatching a battalion of personnel to move snowplows and trucks along I-80 through Wyoming. It's too open, and there are far fewer autos and trucks on the road. It makes no sense. Wyoming is the least populous of the United States. The density is six people per square mile.
More importantly, you can't fight the wind with snowplows. You can fight snow and ice, but the wind is a dragon among humans. Standing in it out there is like standing neck-deep in a river. It's a consistent onslaught out of the southwest, interjected with gusts. It has been blowing that way since the creation of the mountains. It has worn down the rocks. The trees tilt away. It causes the snow to scurry along the surface in blinding ground blizzards. Snow snows down, and then snows back toward the sky, and then snows sideways. So given all that, they don't fight it. Instead, they just close the roads. ¹
Laramie was a small city with a handful of hotel chains and fast food restaurants. As we exited onto 3rd street, and passed a highway patrol sitting in her car, we stopped and motioned. She rolled down her window and we asked if she knew when the roads would open. She did not. We asked if she knew a time of day when the wind wasn't so bad. She said usually it "calms" around 5am. Thinking back now, I can imagine she must have thought we were doomed fools.
We managed to get the last two rooms at a Holiday Inn Express, ordered Domino's, watched Game of Thrones, and planned to leave at 5am.
**********
Part 4 of 5.
The Mountain Pass.
The next morning, we woke early, dragged our suitcases through the lobby, tossed them into the trailer, and tumbled into our seats. As we drove through town, there were signs of life, but for the most part it was silent and dark. The clouds silhouetted against the dim blue-hour sky.
As we approached exit 313, a handful of trucks idled in the shoulder, but I could see that the road was open. We turned right onto the entrance ramp, and descended to the highway with the calmness of a rollercoaster train cresting the peak of its lift hill. I could feel my heart beating. "Here we go". There were no more warning signs out there advising against high profile vehicles. We were now in it, there was no turning back.
Immediately I could feel the wind, which had been severe all night, leaning into us with the force of a gale. It was coming primarily out of the southwest and blowing across the highway. Just leeeeeeeeeaaaaannnnning against the van, strong and steady. But ever so often, it would vanish, causing us to fall against a force that was suddenly not there, and whirl in from the other side in a shoulder-charge trying to knock us into the adjacent lane. Over and over. Against us. Gone. Another side. Then it was a headwind, then it was behind, I had to give and take. And all the while, trucks passed steadily, and powder snow blew across the road blurring the lanes. It was a tense January 12th, sunny and cold, 25 degrees (minus 4 Celsius).
Immediately I could feel the wind, which had been severe all night, leaning into us with the force of a gale. It was coming primarily out of the southwest and blowing across the highway. Just leeeeeeeeeaaaaannnnning against the van, strong and steady. But ever so often, it would vanish, causing us to fall against a force that was suddenly not there, and whirl in from the other side in a shoulder-charge trying to knock us into the adjacent lane. Over and over. Against us. Gone. Another side. Then it was a headwind, then it was behind, I had to give and take. And all the while, trucks passed steadily, and powder snow blew across the road blurring the lanes. It was a tense January 12th, sunny and cold, 25 degrees (minus 4 Celsius).
We were out of place among the trucks who were driving faster and with more confidence. No cars, just trucks. Each time one passed, bone-dry powder would kick up from the tires and explode across the road and onto our windshield in a dizzying smoke screen. I maintained a pace where I felt in control, 30 mph. I didn't care if it took all day I was going to drive at a speed I could handle. The trucks were going 50 or 60.
Contiguous patches of black ice covered the road. I found a groove by dropping the transmission into third gear and staying inside the ruts created by truck tires ahead of us leading the way. It was simply a matter of staying in those ruts and not getting blown off the road.
Our goal for the night was Ogden, Utah, which sat just on the other side of the Rockies. There, we'd be in the clear going forward. Laramie to Ogden is three hundred and eighty-seven miles. In the summer, it would have been a five to six hour drive. At 30mph, it was going to take us twelve to thirteen.
Towns along the way were stationed about a hundred miles apart with no rest areas or gas stations in between.
Laramie (where we started)
99 miles
Rawlins
108 miles
Rock Springs
103 miles
Evanston
77 miles
Ogden.
We stopped at each to take a break. At 30mph, they were three hours apart. Three hours of the blustering wind leeeeeeeeeaaaaannnnning into us, wearing us down.
Every few miles, we saw a capsized tractor-trailer lying like a speared woolly mammoth on the side of the road. Motionless. No people, flashing lights, emergency vehicles, or tow trucks, just a dead carcass alone in the wild.
At Rawlins, while stopped at a McDonald's, and where by conversing with someone heading in the opposite direction, we learned that it was "pretty bad" up the road toward Rock Springs. We had to keep moving because the wind would only get stronger as the day progressed.
Sure enough it was "pretty bad". The wind intensified and I held my breath a few times. We stopped for fuel at Rock Springs. By then, we had traveled about two hundred miles in seven hours. It was early afternoon and there were a few hours of daylight remaining.
We pushed on toward Evanston and finally found reprieve. There was less snow and ice, and a weakened wind. It seemed like we'd made it through the worst. As we approached town, nautical dusk descended. The sky turned purple, the stars were diamonds, and headlights were yellow lanterns on the horizon. It was the warm gloaming spell.
It was now seventy-seven miles to Ogden, and had been ten hours since we started.
There is a mountain pass that sits between Evanston and Ogden. It's one final push to go over before clearing the Rockies and descending into the Great Basin. We pushed on into cascading darkness, and reached the Wyoming-Utah border where we exited right on I-84 toward points northwest, and over the pass toward Ogden.
As we climbed into the mountains, a cloud cover formed, and it started to snow. Lightly at first, but soon it got hairy. It was now pitch black. There was no moon nor stars, just a wall of snow through headlamps. It became relentless and disorienting. I chugged along, slowing from forty to thirty to twenty in the right lane. I blinked and squinted to see through the snow like it was a bad trip. It was confusing and blanketed the lanes. We were in a blizzard. My nerves were shot and though trucks roared past on our left every few minutes, we were alone. It got darker, colder, and quieter. The world shrunk. But we kept moving. Kept going forward.
Consciousness is a funny thing.
I like to think of it as being aware of many things on different levels. As I write this, I can hear a train pass, smell coffee, hear my dog sleeping. I can hear birds chirping, wind blowing. And yet I type all of this at the same time. I think of mundane things like my checking account, of what I'm going to do after I write. I think of what I'll do next week, next month and yet I'm also here.
And as you read this, you also hear sounds and are aware of other things. You pause and look around. You wonder if you have time to finish reading this, is it worth it. You think of where you have to go later, what you have to do, what you did last night, and this triggers emotions and thoughts.
All of these are fragmentary short-lived stories that appear and play short-lived roles. Most of the time we're just moving and reacting to whatever is happening, engaged in fast thinking, which is automatic and quick.
But sometimes the mind can zero in on something at the expense of everything else, slow thinking. It demands attention and focus. Flow. It's when time stands still and we lose ourselves in the moment.
These are the moments we live for and yet they are hard to find.
It's what makes us human.
Real life in the present is complex and there are no conclusions. Nothing is definite.
Magic is magic but sometimes nothing at all.
As I drove that day, the scene played out in real time. I made millions of calculations and exhausted my bandwidth.
And so now we are here on a mountain and are driving and moving and it's dark and the snow is falling and we're going and it gets BAD but my mind is always thinking "how bad can it get?" And we keep moving and other thoughts pop into my head: load-in in two days, the hotel, I'm hungry, I should call my parents, I want a beer. I think about driving in Germany and being bored and repeating the most inane sayings over and over with everyone and laughing. Every few miles was a sign that said "AUSFAHRT" ("Exit" in German), and how we repeated it mindlessly and giggled like children.
A truck passes and there's an explosion of slush and mud across our windshield and it gets WORSE and comes in WAVES and I can feel my heart beating and everyone is silent and staring out the windshield now, not lying down watching movies, but transfixed. The snow is heavy and blinding. And there is no stopping no pulling over and another truck roars past us like we're a wounded animal.
It gets darker and colder and quieter it's suffocating us. The world somehow shrinks further and gets more silent. The snow gets heavier and all the while my mind is thinking "how much worse can it get? Is it over? Is it gonna get violent?" I think about a friend I'll see in Seattle and some random memory from high school and a scene from a movie.
And it continues and the world shrinks and then there are flashes of desperation and I think how bad is this gonna get. I hear myself saying out loud "what is this? I can't see anything." I'm riding the rumble strips to stay on the road to not drive off into a snowbank, the road is blanketed, it's freshly covered, there's no road, I can't see what's in front, we're getting pummeled, I can't see the road, I can't see out the side through the darkness, I'm a blind man riding rumble strips.
The waves are over our head now, now we're in it. We've entered the supernatural unknown. I rub my eyes. It's dizzying, confusing, and plays tricks on my mind. And then it's intense tunnel vision. The snow coming down is mesmerizing, soft and silent. It's burying us. I can feel the tires slide and spin. This is more than we bargained for. Now we've hit a snowstorm in Utah in pitch-black going over a mountain. Now we're totally lost. I look at the speedometer and we're going ten and I know so long as we keep inching forward there's a chance we'll escape.
And now my mind is perfectly calm. I'm weightless. Levitating. Thinking of nothing, only driving, only the rumble strips, just keep moving. Perfect flow. Fully fixated and we're moving in slow motion. If we can keep going forward there's a chance. I'm the most calm when the world is chaos. And there isn't any place I want to be other than on this mountain.
And then it lets up.
Suddenly.
Tires hit pavement. And we get traction. As if we had been pulling a pallet of bricks and suddenly the chain was cut. The aperture widens, the world gets bigger, the sound opens up. Now it's clear and we can see the lights of the city below. I breathe. The relief is something we can reach out, pull near, and hold onto.
We made it to In-N-Out just as they were closing.
Then woke at dawn and drove 795 miles from Ogden to Seattle where the promoter asked us how the drive was, and we said "it was fine."
**********
Part 5 of 5.
Looking back.
Looking back now at those days in the van, so much has happened. So much has changed. We started to move at a really fast clip going forward, but didn't realize it at the time. Relativity is a motherfucker. Einstein said that in 1905 and shattered Newton's world. He was right that change is the only constant, nothing is "at rest". He was talking about the physical world. You know, the constant velocity of light and all that. But it works in our minds too. When you are moving at a really fast rate, time ticks normally to you. It slows down. But relative to others, it's flying by. Years pass. And then you look back one day and say "whoa".
At the time, we'd pull up to those arenas and large theaters, and be surrounded by dozens of trucks, buses, forklifts, golf carts, security guards, and people with radios yelling and whistling and it was all just a big joke to us. We were just this lowly van-and-trailer circling until we found our way in.
Many times when I was touring in a van, I had existential crises, or thereabouts. I had "what the fuck am I doing with my life" moments. Many times. And I know others I was with had the same types of moments.
I've never ruminated harder, or contemplated existence more than while staring out a window going down a highway.
But I've also never laughed as hard, never had as much fun. Even if it didn't always seem fun in the moment.
Other than in a van, I've never been in a moment where I couldn't talk, couldn't breathe, couldn't stop crying, or break from the fetal position because the muscles in my abdomen were as tight as tennis balls from laughing so hard at some stupid joke.
If "me" now could go back in a time machine and speak to "me" then, I'd probably just tell myself to slow down, take it easy, and try to enjoy it. If you're going to do it, go all the way. Don't panic. Don't fret. Don't be anxious, don't worry. It's ok to be five minutes late to load in. It's ok if it's raining at load out, and you have to haul everything down a narrow harrowing flight of stairs, drive an hour after the show, stopping at Taco Bell along the way, then wake up at 6 a.m. and drive five hundred more miles, and haul everything back up another rickety flight of stairs. It's ok.
Because at some point you'll leave the van. And once that happens you'll see that the world outside is real serious. Everyone takes themself, and their job, real seriously.
As they should. They have real responsibilities. They'll need things "urgently". Because once tours scale, they become crazy expensive. Like, comically expensive. And stressful. And even dangerous. It takes military-style murmuration from platoons of people to pull off.
And it's about everything BUT the music. It's all about the numbers and schedules:
Number of tickets sold, streams, syncs, ad impressions, chart moves.
Merch counts, ticket counts, tech kills, ticket audits, seat maps.
Merch counts, ticket counts, tech kills, ticket audits, seat maps.
Budgets. Routing. Visas, immigration, customs and carnets (pr: kar-nāys).
Riders attached "hereto" and made part of "Agreements" where the "Artist" and "Purchaser" are "Hereinafter referred to".
Bigger production, more video, crossloads, union breaks, juice machines. Trucks, buses, sprinters. "Hot doggin'" cases into "flat packs" on "dance floors".
Crew retainers, day rates, weekly rates.
Airline status, airport lounges. Suites with balconies. Hotel aliases. Personal trainers, personal assistants, wardrobe cases, stylists. Super Bowl seats, NCAA championship events. Gear sponsorships.
Festival lineups. Festival timeslots. Festival soundchecks, festival passes, festival parking. Festival guestlists. NY & LA guestlists. London, Paris and Berlin guestlists. Tokyo, Singapore and Sydney guestlists.
And everyone wants to stay in the nicest hotels on the highest floors, eat in Michelin-star restaurants, fly first-class, ride in black cars, lounge in pools, get free sneakers, the best treatment, the latest gear, will shit on Behringer, and will ditch one gig for a new one that pays better.
But for now at least, it's nice and simple and about the music: drive, do a show, sleep; drive, do a show, sleep.
Because once you leave the van you'll never laugh as hard, never have as much fun. Even if it doesn't always seem fun in the moment.
Because once you leave the van you'll never laugh as hard, never have as much fun. Even if it doesn't always seem fun in the moment.
NOTES:
¹ McPhee, John. Annals of the Former World. New York: Farrar, Straus and Giroux, 1998.
² Csikszentmihalyi, Mihaly. Flow. New York: HarperCollins, 1990.
